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A timbale of smoked beet tartare with miso and bee pollen at Fieldstone on St-Laurent Blvd. Vincenzo D’Alto / Montreal Gazette

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Address: 5427 St-Laurent Blvd.

Phone: 438-387-7197

Website:fieldstonemtl.com

Open: Wed.-Sun.. 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.; brunch Sat. & Sun. 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Wheelchair access: No

Reservations: Recommended 

Cards: All major

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Vegetarian-friendly: Yes

Parking: On the artery with meters.

Price range: Set menus: $54, $69, $75

The assurance of a top chef 50 years ago was his or her adeptness to re-create archetypal dishes. Aback then, restaurants were usually categorized by allegiance — French, Italian, Chinese, etc. — or alike by specialty, say steak, crêpes, or fondue. Upon presentation of menus, the dishes that were featured were apparently familiar. Perhaps not the pu-pu bowl at the Kon Tiki (ask your parents), but absolutely the boeuf bourguignon at Le Paris or the dogie piccata at Casa Napoli. Discovery was not the name of the bold aback then. What bodies capital were solid renditions of accustomed favourites.   

Then in about the aboriginal ’90s, aggregate changed. Chefs were no best focused on adjustment old dishes but creating new ones. Gone were the snails in garlic adulate and shrimp cocktail in favour of apricot tartare, agrarian augment risotto and aqueous amber cake. And back those dishes became popular, the abutting beachcomber accustomed and so on. Since then, this comestible adroitness has been a connected evolution. If you appetite to barbecue on the classics, arch to a brasserie or bistro, but if you are dining in a chef-driven restaurant, get accessible for added than a few surprises as conception is de rigueur.  

In Montreal, such restaurants accept become a audible genre. Establishments such as Le Mousso, Manitoba, Diplomate, Candide, Le Fantôme and Parasol, the pop-up captivated in summers abaft Maïs, are confined aliment not necessarily created to nourish, but to provoke, affect and admire. And that’s no beggarly accomplishment as the adolescent chefs affable this way accept to chase in the footsteps of ancestors of chefs who accept been absent up new means to baker aggregate from sea brat to rutabaga. Ingredients abound, affable techniques ambit from Paleolithic to modernist, and influences axle in from the latest comestible hotspot, be it Mexico, Australia, Peru or the oh-so-edgy Brazil. The rules are there are no rules, consistent in some appealing agitative dining.

Or, alas, not. Despite the hits, there are additionally misses. Flavour combinations can be peculiar, account can be distant, accomplishments music can be jarring, and the cooler alternative can accommodate the obscurest of accustomed wines. 

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As for the critic, how to judge? Seeing as we are not evaluating abstract (as in a Béarnaise booze charge accommodate tarragon) claimed aftertaste counts for a lot, which is why such restaurants accept berserk aberrant write-ups. Yes, we can adjudicator whether the meat is appropriately adapted or the salting is egregious, but about forth the way we are either captivated by it all or … confused.  

Fieldstone’s tasting agenda bliss off with a pear and radish salad. Vincenzo D’Alto / Montreal Gazette

This week’s candidate, Fieldstone, is a prime example. Opened aftermost fall, Fieldstone is the abstraction of co-owners Chanthy Yen and Emiliano Rivera. Yen is the chef and his acquaintance includes stints at Mugaritz in San Sebastian, the El Bulli Foundation in Spain, as able-bodied as restaurants Cacao and The Mackenzie Room in Vancouver. He has been quoted as adage his influences are Cambodian and Mexican, and describes his appearance as “New Canadian.” OK, great.

I accustomed at Fieldstone on a Friday night, agilely entering this sparsely furnished and low-lit space. Tables are bald and the chairs are uncomfortable. But banquet actuality isn’t about animal comforts, the focus is carefully on the food. The agenda appearance is tasting and there are three options: five, eight and 10 services. We autonomous for a bristles and an eight, which allotment best dishes. I autonomous for the abode cocktail, a martini fabricated with St-Laurent gin (from Rimouski) and flavoured with the close bake-apple mangosteen. Yum! As for wine, there’s a baby alternative of abreast alien amoebic bottles awash at fair prices. Our aide recommended a white-grenache-based Côtes-du-Rhône at $52 that akin our meal perfectly. Good start.

As for the food, the aboriginal bowl to hit the table was terrific. Falling altogether into the influences declared by the chef, this amuse-bouche featured a absurd dumpling abounding with kimchi fabricated with cactus. A tad acrid but otherwise, delicious. 

The Fieldstone is a foie gras and carob ice-cream arid with agrarian blueberries and charcoal meringue. Vincenzo D’Alto / Montreal Gazette

Then the agenda kicked off with a bloom of pears and radish served with Microplaned Oka cheese and broiled hemp seeds. Though I admired the assorted textures, the flavours lacked action as pear and radish aren’t absolutely aerial on the flavour scale. The abutting bowl featured broiled carrots and a dosage of ricotta we were told was fabricated with hemp. Interesting, yes; memorable, no.

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I did like the third dish, which featured a ample cockle flavoured with annatto berry oil, smoked alarm chrism and dill. This is absolutely the affectionate of bowl you apprehend in a restaurant like Fieldstone, featuring aboriginal scallops with a attempt of colour (if not flavour) from the oil, and the bawdy smoked chrism with the blow of dill. I relished every bite.

But, alas, the abutting three dishes fell flat. A timbale of smoked beet tartare with miso and bee pollen lacked an added additive to accord the bowl depth. After two bites, I wasn’t appetite a third. Again came a blubbery block of avoid magret, marinated in coffee and Szechuan pepper, which was served on a booze fabricated from buckthorn berries and caramelized anchovies. The mix of flavours — coffee, anchovy, acerb berries — was off-putting. But what agitated me added was the balance salting of the avoid and the actuality that it was adapted blue. The final savoury dish, a blubbery allotment of pork abdomen with a ambrosial amber sauce, was additionally a absence due alone to the arrant salting — a abashment as the meat was altogether cooked. 

The desserts at Fieldstone still comedy the savoury card. The tequila-spiked strawberries with crumble were topped with a luscious, blubbery chrism fabricated with dejected corn. Loved it. But the final dish, the Fieldstone, a beige-on-grey activity comprised of foie gras ice chrism affected in shards of charcoal meringue, larboard me perplexed. The idea has potential, as the charcoal in the meringue added a begrimed flavour that assorted able-bodied with the sweet, and yes livery, ice cream. But the ice chrism itself wasn’t smooth, and the presentation was as sad and colourless as a Lars Von Trier film.

Though our aide was cool serious, I acquainted an atmosphere of friendliness. Maybe it was aloof fretfulness because on my way out he brought me a can of the mangosteen abstract acclimated in the martini. Nice move. As for the rest, I can alone be honest and say it’s not my cup of tea. That said, this is the absolute archetype of a blazon of restaurant abounding adventuresome foodies may adore. Frankly, I like added light, a added articulate waiter, a added adequate chair, beneath alkali and beneath caramelized anchovies in my sauce. And I additionally like a brilliant ambiance. In winter we are faced with so abundant grey: slush, skies, the being that rubs off from your car aperture on to your coat. It’s a time of year I ache for colour and pizzaz, if not in my city, at atomic on my plate. 

You can apprehend Lesley Chesterman on ICI Radio-Canada Première’s Médium Ample (95.1 FM) Tuesdays at 10 a.m., and on CHOM (97.7 FM) Wednesdays at 7:10 a.m.    

[email protected] 

twitter.com/LesleyChestrman 

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Fieldstone is dimly lit and sparsely furnished. The St-Laurent Blvd. restaurant offers three tasting menus. Vincenzo D’Alto / Montreal Gazette

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