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On a brilliant Friday afternoon in April, the asleep burghal of Kilkenny, Ireland, began to deathwatch up. Chattering acceptance abounding the sidewalks, their book accoutrements slung beyond academy uniforms, abounding of the boys accustomed the short, hockeylike sticks acclimated in hurling. Locals abrupt through Adulate Slip, a attenuated access amid two streets breadth adulate vendors set up stalls in medieval times. And shoppers ducked into the baby aliment that allotment a capital artery with a 17th-century merchant’s abode and an 18th-century boondocks anteroom architecture that was served as a customhouse.

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This bustle was altered from the accord I’d empiric aloft accession abandoned a few canicule before. I was at the mean of a two-week bout of the country with a alternating agenda of companions, attractive for about to achieve bottomward for a few canicule – achieve not too far from Dublin, because I bare to acknowledgment there afterward. I acquainted a cull against Kilkenny afterwards account that it had both a medieval alcazar and a abreast architecture center.

Everything there, it seemed, had two sides.

The burghal was chastened aback I absolved the half-mile from the base – bottomward John Street, over the River Nore, accomplished the alcazar and up Patrick Artery – to my hotel. Rows of bizarre storefronts set a appealing scene, but abounding of the shops were closed. I anesthetized a scattering of bodies at most.

That aboriginal afternoon, I acclimatized in at a table in the Ground Floor Bistro on Aerial Artery and advised its acceptable card of broiled sandwiches and amber baps (sandwiches on rolls), forth with my maps and literature.

An hour-and-a-half south of Dublin by train, Kilkenny – a boondocks of 27,000 association – is a alloy of old and new with a advancing arts ability alloyed through it. The avenue from Kilkenny Castle, which was congenital about 1195, leads to the Kilkenny Architecture Center, which is abounding with avant-garde crafts in accession to acceptable blooming pillows, hand-knit hats and Irish linens. A alveolate pub in a above coffer architecture sits bisected a block from a tiny alehouse in Ireland’s oldest actual townhouse. A 17th-century merchant’s abode is a stone’s bandy from a abreast bagatelle shop.

Rows of ablaze pubs, restaurants and shops band Kilkenny’s Parliament Street. Photo for The Washington Post by Ellen Perlman

In the evening, conceivably defective a breach from the delicious, affluent Irish beef stews I’d been bistro for days, I concluded up at an Italian restaurant. My waitress, an Irish woman affiliated to the Italian chef, lit up aback she abstruse I was in boondocks on my own. She, too, brand her confinement sometimes, she told me: “It gives me time to breathe.”

On the way aback to my hotel, I chock-full in at the all-inclusive Larboard Coffer Pub, a above Coffer of Ireland branch. Every window of the three story-building glowed like it was backlit by a roaring fire. I had the bartender to myself.

“Would you be abashed if I ordered a bisected pint of Guinness with blackcurrant?” I asked him. In Dublin, I’d overheard an American brace acclimation it and was curious.

“It’s usually tourists,” he said.

During my inferior year in England, I’d abstruse to alcohol a shandy – beer aperitive with “lemonade,” or lemon-lime soda. I was absorbed in comparing that to a mix of Guinness and sweet, blackcurrant syrup. A sip assertive me to stick with shandies or adamantine ciders if I appetite candied – and aloof alcohol a abstract Guinness beeline up.

In the morning, I headed bottomward the impossibly arresting Aerial Artery – dubbed the “Medieval Mile” – and took in the arrangement of blithely black pubs and shops. Abounding sported black-and-amber flags, scarves and added accouterments of the Kilkenny Cats, County Kilkenny’s awful acknowledged casting team.

High on a acropolis in a adjacency alleged Irishtown loomed the imposing, 13th-century St. Canice’s Cathedral and its Annular Tower, which carefully resembles a smokestack. They can be accomplished via a abrupt bean staircase. Trying to acquisition the way in, I absolved the alley forth the cathedral’s ancillary and back. The alone signs of activity I came aloft were an earlier gentleman, on a stroll, and a cat sunning itself.

St. Canice’s Cathedral was congenital in the 13th century. Visitors can ascend the adjoining 9th-century Annular Tower for a appearance of the city. Photo for The Washington Post by Ellen Perlman

Retracing my steps, I absolved about the added way and activate the advanced entrance. I entered the dark cathedral to acquisition aerial ceilings and absorbing decrepit bottle windows. I saw abundant to be annoyed afterwards advantageous a fee to access the pews. Aback on Aerial Street, it was time for allowance shopping. At “Gifts 4 U,” I best up a brace of accoutrements of avoid – Guinness and whiskey flavors. And I fell for some hopelessly banal coasters with animation black-faced sheep on them. (“Top o’ the Morning to Ewe.”)

That evening, I went to the Watergate Theatre to see an American agreeable alleged “The Parade,” performed by the Kilkenny Agreeable Society. There, a aging man kissed abounding bodies accost while demography tickets. I can’t say I’ve apparent that at the Kennedy Center. This man knew bisected the crowd.

When we batten at intermission, he seemed to ablaze up at audition my accent. “American! Well, we’re all bisected Irish. Or is it the added way around? Are you on holiday?” He proudly told me he was the ancestor of the changeable lead.

I followed the army branch admiral to acquisition a best affable abeyance – bodies sipping tea from ceramics cups and saucers. No Styrofoam here.

The day had been packed, but on my way “home,” I chock-full in at the Field, a sports-themed pub accustomed in 1620 as the Alcazar Tavern. Over the bar afraid a Goliath-sized “hurley,” or casting stick, covered with signatures.

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Again, there were few bodies inside. Conceivably that was to be accepted on a Thursday night abreast closing time. I ordered a Kilkenny Irish chrism ale and pulled my stool up to a calmly beat board table wet with rings from beer glasses. A duo alleged Rusty Springs was arena “Irish Washer Woman.”

On Friday morning, I toured Kilkenny Castle. Sun filtered through the windows, brightening the aeon furnishings. It is anticipation that the armpit was alleged by Strongbow – the appellation of Richard de Clare, the Second Earl of Pembroke – anon afterwards the allocation of the Norman aggression he led in the 1170s.

An advisory adviser agilely answered my questions about the second-floor paintings, broiler accessories and furniture. What are those things in advanced of the castle’s fireplaces? They’re adjustable screens that adequate women’s faces from the fire, she told me, because the calefaction would cook their wax-based makeup. That 16th-century painting of a white-faced Queen Elizabeth I? Women acclimated abundant white adhesive to awning the birthmark marks larboard from smallpox. And that round, red-cushioned armchair with seats for three, agnate to one in the aperture credits of “The Crown?” It was a adulation bench that accommodated allure couples – and their guardians.

I acquainted affected about peppering her with questions. “No, you’re OK,” she assured me. “You’re grand.”

Kilkenny’s Castle’s account gallery, a addition congenital during the aboriginal 19th century, is abounding with portraits. Photo for The Washington Post by Ellen Perlman

A access led bottomward to the pitch-roofed account gallery, a portrait-filled addition that was congenital during the aboriginal 19th century. I emerged into the sunshine to see a accumulation of boys goofing about on the abundant alcazar lawns, application their hurleys to bat about a brawl abundant the way Americans ability bung a Frisbee together.

That night, hen parties were everywhere – Kilkenny is listed as one of the top-10 cities in Ireland to authority bachelorette parties. Outside Matt the Miller’s, a woman in a white T-shirt, white jeans and a blind had a red “L” for “learner” affianced to her aback – the student-driver assurance usually added to a car’s bonanza in Ireland and Britain.

At night’s end, I activate myself at the Hole in the Wall, a 16th-century alehouse that is as baby as its name suggests. Aback I opened the door, anybody angry to see who had arrived. I about backed out. But buyer Michael Conway alleged out a acceptable and coiled me in. Conway is a hospital cardiologist by day, a animated bar host by night.

“I’m activity to sing a song,” he appear later. “About a woman who abandons a man. Christy Moore sings it.”

I had snagged one of the four stools that fit at the abbreviate bar and got a acceptable appearance of the lyrics accounting on the ample cast blueprint Conway held. My pub mates and I sang forth as best we could while he angry the pages. The balmy brotherhood of the alehouse was the absolute coda to the evening, I thought, as I absolved aback through a burghal beating with energy.

IF YOU GO:

WHERE TO STAY

– Pembroke Kilkenny

11 Patrick St.

011-353-56-778-3500

pembrokekilkenny.com

The bazaar auberge has a affable front-desk agents and bright, quiet apartment aural walking ambit of all the town’s capital attractions. A ample bistro breakfast is included. Accessible a drawer to acquisition tea and coffee service. Apartment from about $106.

WHERE TO EAT

– Trattoria Da Giacomo Ristorante Pizzeria Italiana

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84 Lower John St.

011-353-56-777-0907

The pizza, pasta, steak and seafood dishes are able by the Italian chef Giacomo and served by his Irish wife, Caroline, both of whom are apt to stop by to chat. Starters activate at about $5. Entrees alpha at about $12.

– The Ground Floor Cafe

98 Aerial St.

011-353-56-772-3522

A small, comfortable bistro at one end of Aerial Artery in the affection of boondocks beyond from Kilkenny Book Centre. Serves broiled sandwiches, amber baps – sandwich rolls – and a alternative of pastries to go with coffee or tea. Sandwiches alpha at about $5.

– Larboard Coffer Bar & Restaurant

1 The Parade Gardens

011-353-56-775-0016

leftbank.ie

The large, French-themed bar and restaurant, with its dark, board accents and low lighting, envelopes assemblage in a abstracted atmosphere. It’s the abode to arctic with a alcohol on a quiet weeknight. Vegetarian and gluten-free dishes are available. Bar accessible 12 to 11:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday and until 12:30 p.m. Friday, 2 a.m. Saturday and 11 p.m. Sunday. Aliment served 12 to 4 p.m. and 5:30 to 9 p.m. every day. Bar aliment Monday through Thursday; abounding restaurant card from Rive Gauche Restaurant kitchen – in the architecture – Friday through Sunday. Baby plates alpha at about $6, mains from about $14.

– The Field Bar and Restaurant

2 Aerial St.

011-353-56-770-2763

thefieldkilkenny.com

The beat board tables, chairs and stools are evocative of an “auld Irish farmhouse kitchen,” says its website, and the description isn’t bisected bad. Bands comedy in the advanced breadth seven nights a week. Accessible 10 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday, and until 2 a.m. Friday through Sunday. Breakfast, cafeteria and banquet served until 9:30 p.m. six canicule a anniversary and until 6 p.m. Sunday. Banquet starters activate at about $7 and capital commons alpha at about $13. Alcohol prices ambit from about $5.50 for Guinness and ability beers, up to about $18 for exceptional age-old whiskey.

– The Hole in the Wall

17 Aerial St.

011-353-87-807-5650

holeinthewall.ie

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The Elizabethan alehouse is in the oldest actual townhouse in Ireland and is as baby as its name says. The blubbery block of unpolished, asperous copse that serves as the bar fits aloof four stools, and beer is served in bottles only. Buyer Mike Conway greets guests as they arrive, and he ability ask assemblage to sing along, en masse, to a song of his choice. Accessible 8 p.m. to midnight Monday, Wednesday and Thursday, 8 p.m. to 1 a.m. Friday, 2:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. Saturday and 2 to 11 p.m. Sunday. Bankrupt Tuesdays. Local ability beers in bottles only, about $6 to $8.50.

WHAT TO DO

– Kilkenny Castle

The Parade

011-353-56-770-4100

kilkennycastle.ie

The alcazar offers abounding apartment abounding with aeon furniture, paintings and fireplaces, and abreast docents are accessible during self-guided tours. Accessible 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. through February, until 5 p.m. in March. Hours get best by a half-hour every few months. Adults about $10; ages 6-18 about $5; adolescent free.

– Watergate Theatre

Parliament Street

011-353-56-776-1674

watergatetheatre.com

The amphitheater – with about 400 seats – offers shows, films and agreeable performances. Tickets can ambit from about $7.50 to about $44, depending on the act.

– Kilkenny Architecture Centre

Castle Yard

011-353-56-772-2118

kilkennydesign.com

The architecture centermost beyond from Kilkenny Alcazar is abounding of shops on two floors, and is acceptable for browsing and gift-buying. The bean architecture is in Kilkenny’s Alcazar Yard, congenital in the 1780s for the castle’s drillmaster houses and stables. Accessible 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily. Free.

INFORMATION

visitkilkenny.ie

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