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Sarah Jessica Parker, who gave a post-show banquet for Mr. Rodriguez at Per Se — area the guests ate continuing in the kitchen, American style, and lingered until afterwards midnight — accepted the designer’s faculty of abstemiousness amidst the Latin flourishes. ”I told him, ‘You’re so not a showoff,’ ” she said. ”That’s what I adulation about him — his modesty.”

Vera Wang’s apart bolero jackets and layered chiffon acme broadcast with gold sequins at the hem showed the access of Rochas and of Marc Jacobs’s aftermost accumulating for Louis Vuitton. But it was a admirable collection, able in its capricious use of color, like chartreuse attenuated with amber and gold, announcement a woman’s eye for avant-garde dressing. Tulle came aggregate in sun-ray pleats over analogous silk, and bias-cut dresses had tiny $.25 of fraying at the seams to advance a beneath done-up look. And Ms. Wang’s capacity were additionally playful. She gave a binding of ablaze chaplet to the waist and hem of a long, aqueous clothes and tossed gold paillettes on addition atramentous dress. The dangling chaplet looked like activated absorb sticks in alpine glasses, the paillettes like money. They were New York references, big-league references. And Ms. Wang let herself comedy them up with feminine moxie.

The afflatus for the Sebastian Pons appearance on Tuesday was the 15th-century adventure of Spanish campaign to the New World — a ample undertaking, both times. While brocaded conquistador tunics and carpeting aprons would attending out of abode today — but no added than a accumulation of actors in a aeon blur would on their cafeteria breach at Katz’s Delicatessen — you could see that Mr. Pons had approached this abstraction of aggregate civilizations seriously. Passionately, even. He had craftsmen in his built-in Majorca acrylic fabrics, and he acclimated Spanish linen and trimmings, and they looked accomplished as dresses abstract with bright pinwheels or as a atramentous bittersweet dress with coiled white ruff. The clothes were at their best, though, aback Mr. Pons angled his affair to clothing the accommodation of avant-garde life, axis what ability accept been a annular adorned Majorcan tablecloth into a swingy, cape-back top and a lambskin bandy rug into a abundant bolero.

”You can get those rugs at Costco,” an editor said admiringly.

Anticipating the desires of free-spending adolescent bodies (Ed Burstell, the accepted administrator of Henri Bendel, says his abundance has barter who boutique every 21 days) is the business of brands like Marc by Marc Jacobs and Generra, advised by Chic Melillo. Layering was the adventure at Marc, as Mr. Jacobs beatific out a book affection blouse and chrism Henley shirt beneath a flouncy dress and advisedly alloyed an aqua striped bodice with a smocked atramentous clover dress and white ribbed tights. But it wasn’t absolutely a new story.

Mr. Melillo seemed added attuned to the 21-day customer, who expects article new alike if it’s alone a biscuit minicoat with epaulets and a pinched, elasticized aback or an Empire-waist mini in atramentous applique with a abysmal amethyst car coat. And by putting his clothes on a lot of adolescent New Yorkers, like Lydia Hearst and the boyish daughters of Keith Richards and Patti Hanson — and evoking the atmosphere of Richard Avedon’s photograph of associates of Warhol’s Factory — Mr. Melillo absolutely abhorred the botheration of aggravating to accomplish a appearance appearance attending real, not to acknowledgment cool.

Oh, if the aforementioned could alone be said for John Varvatos. His appearance yesterday, which included women’s clothes for the aboriginal time, had all the pep of a winter fly bouncing listlessly off the windowpanes. You charge added than chic fabrics and black colors rendered as coats and tasteful separates to get a woman’s attention. Roberto Menichetti, the above Burberry artist who now has his own label, additionally brand those easygoing sand-and-slate tones, absolute for aggregate into the sidewalk, if that’s what you want. His easy-to-blend clothes activity a adulation of sport, but at the anticipation of bottomward into a covering atramentous gown, you can’t advice apprehensive if the man understands a woman’s body, or New York?

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